Coumarin

Switching between hay and tonka beans depending on the context of the material in a fragrance, coumarin is one of the most widely used and popular synthetic aroma chemicals. It was the first synthetic used in a fragrance — 10% of Fougère Royale by Paul Parquet for Houbigant in 1882 (see the formula for this fine fragrance below).

A touch of coumarin can naturalise vanillin giving a truer note of vanilla beans, while an overdose contributes a wonderful cut hay scent. 

IFRA 51: 1.5% in finished product (Cat. 4)
Average Use: 1% in a perfume compound

Odour Family: Balsamic
Appearance: White crystalline powder
Longevity: Lasts > 1 month on a smelling strip.

Odour Profile: Coumarin presents a sweet, powdery, hay-like aroma with pronounced almondy and herbaceous facets, often evoking the distinctive warmth of new-mown hay with subtle vanilla-like and tonka bean nuances.

Uses: Used extensively as a fixative and key structural element in fougère, oriental, and gourmand compositions to impart warmth, sweetness, and volume.

INCI Name: COUMARIN
IUPAC Name: 2H-1-Benzopyran-2-one